SPORT MULTI-PITCH LEADER COURSE: SYSTEMS & RESCUE

TAKE YOUR MULTI-PITCH SKILLS TO THE NEXT LEVEL THIS SUMMER

 

Our 4-Day Sport Multi-Pitch Leader Course: Systems & Rescue combines our Multi-Pitch and Rock Rescue Systems courses into one intensive program, hosted in Canmore, Banff, and Kananaskis Country over the long weekends this summer.

This course is designed for those who are looking to take on multi-pitch sport routes this summer as well as those who want to stay current with the industry best practices for systems and rescue training. Our end goal is to build you into a confident, competent, and independent multi-pitch sport leader that is able to apply the systems safely and efficiently, whilst also knowing what to do should the unexpected happen.

Once you're confident leading single-pitch routes up to 5.7 outdoors and want to multiply the pitches, join our Cloud Nine IFMGA & ACMG Certified Mountain Guides outdoors for four full days of instruction.

This course is offered twice this summer: over the August long weekend and the Labour Day long weekend in September. With limited seats available, we suggest booking early to ensure availability, in particular if you’re joining us with the family or your crew.

 

  4 FULL DAYS OF TRAINING OUTDOORS WITH IFMGA & ACMG CERTIFIED GUIDES

INTERNATIONALLY CERTIFIED GUIDES & INSTRUCTORS
 

  EQUIPMENT INCLUDED IN YOUR BOOKING

HARNESS, HELMET & ALL TECHNICAL GEAR INCLUDED - OR BRING YOUR OWN
 

  COURSES AVAILABLE TWICE THIS SUMMER

AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER LONG WEEKENDS

 

 

 

ITINERARY

4 FULL DAYS OF OUTDOOR TRAINING - CANMORE, BANFF, AND KANANASKIS COUNTRY

During During the Outdoor Training days, we’ll be exploring different local crags in the Bow Valley, no more than an hour’s drive from the town of Canmore.

 

DAY 1

7+ HOUR TRAINING SESSION - SYSTEMS TRAINING

Our training Day 1 will focus on learning how to recognize hazards associated with multi-pitch environments, systems required for building and transitioning at multi-pitch anchors, route finding, techniques for belaying from above your partner(s), technical descents and rappel systems, rope and belay station management, and efficiency tactics, all tied together with the opportunity to apply these new skills on 2-pitch (mini) multi-pitch routes as your Guide moves and coaches alongside you and your co-students. Skill sets learned on and included in Day 1 are:

  • Intro to Hazard Identification in Multi-Pitch Environments
  • Appropriate Route Selection during & post-course
  • Anchor Construction for Multi-Pitch Climbing
  • Fall Factors, Impact Force Management Direct Anchor Belays (for belaying a 2nd)
  • Fixed Point Belays (belaying a leader directly from an anchor)
  • Redirected Belays (for managing lateral approaches to an anchor above)
  • Reading arrival and exit directions to and from anchors at transitions
  • Anchor and rope management to increase efficiency / reduce risk at transitions 
  • Technical descents including both lowers and rappel systems
  • Apply all above skills with coaching and feedback on multiple short (but live) 2-pitch routes as your Guide coaches from alongside your rope team

 

DAY 2

7+ HOUR TRAINING SESSION - LIVE MULTI-PITCH ROUTE ASCENT

Day 2 will provide students the opportunity to apply newly learned skills in a live ascent of a bolt-protected multi-pitch route. Note that the goal of the day is not to push or to be challenged by technical grades, but consolidate the newly learned skill sets . Your Guides will collaborate with you by observing your movement skills on Day 1 and suggest a route for Day 2, which is well within your technical ability. Our intention will be to ensure that the technical grade of our Day 2 multi-pitch route is such that its physical and mental difficulties take very little of your bandwidth - it should feel easy. This ensures that your focus doesn't narrow, reducing the capacity to maintain broad situational awareness as we apply a number of new and more technical skill sets. Routes we often use for the ascent include:

  • The Rundlehorn - 5.5 / 7 pitches
  • Aftonroe - 5.7 / 7 pitches
  • Plutonian Shores - 5.9 / 8 pitches
  • Valley View - 5.9 / 6 pitches
  • Hot Fuzz & Sharknado - 5.7/8 / 3 pitches

 

DAY 3

7+ HOUR TRAINING SESSION - TOP-DOWN ROCK CLIMBING RESCUE TECHNIQUES

Our third day at a local crag will focus on what we call "top-down rescue". The day will focus on the skill sets required to provide assistance to a climber who is located below you. These skill sets then become the foundation for moving onto Day 4. Skills you'll learn:

  • Review steps and procedures for initiating an external response from professional rescue teams (National Parks / Alberta Parks Visitor Safety Teams)
  • Discuss potential hazards and the inevitable increases in risk levels tied to responding to an incident yourself
  • Learn to recognize where these hazards exist and to consider the acceptability of these increases in risk levels to you as the rescuer.
  • Review a variety of belay methods (direct anchor belay, redirected belay, fixed point belay)
  • Learn to “escape the belay” by transferring the victim/load directly to an anchor above, freeing you from the system
  • Learn a variety of raise/hauling systems (3:1 Direct Haul as a baseline)
  • Learn a variety of lowering methods with backups/failsafes
  • Learn the counterbalance rappel - a method for descending short distances while "carrying" a victim
  • Learn tandem rappel and carry techniques to manage and descend with either conscious or unconscious victims
  • Learn to seamlessly move from raise/haul into lowers and/or tandem rappels, and to interchange seamlessly between each system as changes in circumstances require
  • Learn how to deal with stuck ropes, rockfall compromising the rope, and passing a knot on rappel

 

DAY 4

7+ HOUR TRAINING SESSION - BOTTOM-UP ROCK CLIMBING RESCUE TECHNIQUES

Our fourth day focus is to build on, and apply in tandem, the new skills taught on Day 3, which allow a rescuer located below a victim to ascend to the position of the victim, create secondary anchorage, secure the victim, and consider the next steps; whether further movement will be required and how (raise/hauling, lowers, tandem rescue rappels). Specific skills learned include:

  • Hazard assessment process prior to beginning an ascent to a victim overhead (we teach this on high-integrity protection only - i.e., bolts)
  • Transferring the load of a victim above to the anchor
  • Techniques for ascending a loaded rope above your anchor
  • Arriving at your victim: defining your priorities (first aid? build an anchor?)
  • Secondary anchors
  • Transferring an unconscious victim to secondary anchors using "short haul" systems
  • Transferring an unconscious victim off a secondary anchor and into raise/haul, lowering, or tandem rescue rappel systems

Once the skills above have been practiced and delivered, your Guides will begin moving onto providing scenarios to practice and challenge our ability; to use all learned tools and skill sets to solve a given problem or scenario.

There are different views on the idea of "training to failure". This is something we believe in and will challenge you on during the course if you allow us to. Failure in this course context is simply running into what we believe to be an "unsolvable problem" in the moment. These scenarios provide two useful perspectives: they show each of us where our competencies in applying the systems lie and, in addition, provide areas for training focus in future practice.

 

Logistics

Logistics to consider ahead of your Sport Multi-Pitch Leader Course:

  • ACCOMMODATION:

    Most students find it best to drive out to join us the morning of the course days. However, if you're looking to get a little closer to our field day location beforehand, we would suggest the following accommodation options in Canmore, Banff & Lake Louise.
     

  • TRIP FOOD & MEAL PROGRAMS:
    • Students are responsible for their own meals during both the indoor and outdoor components of the Sport Multi-Pitch Leader Course.
       
  • TRANSPORTATION: 
    • Students are responsible for their own transportation on the course.
       
  • NATIONAL PARK ENTRY PASSES: 
    • Students are responsible for obtaining a National Park entry pass for their field days if required (Banff National Park) as well as to have their vehicle registered for a Kananaskis Conservation Pass.

 

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT

The following is a Gear, Clothing, and Equipment list. You will be required to arrive with these items on course. Feel free to bring as much of your own gear and equipment as you would like to review and use on the course.

  • Water Bottle or Collapsible Water Bladder (1L)
  • Rock Shoes
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen (min. SPF 50+)
  • Camera, batteries, memory cards & accessories (optional)
  • Daypack (at minimum, 1 x 35-40L backpack. In addition, a 30L option may be appropriate for some days)

*NOTE* - All technical equipment not listed above such as harness, belay devices, quickdraws, ropes, slings etc. will be packed out and provided by us for you on your program. Feel free to bring as much of your own gear to use as you'd like, and your Guide will review it with you when you arrive on the course.

 

ESSENTIAL CLOTHING

  • Jacket
  • Gore-Tex Jacket (for wet weather days only)
  • Gore-Tex Pant (for wet weather days only)
  • Buff Style Neck Tube / Headband
  • Sun Hat (ball cap or full brim bucket style)
  • Thin Insulated Gloves (multiple pairs [3 min] for rope work)
  • Approach Shoes or Trail Runners (no need for heavy hiking boots, unless specifically requested by your Guide based on route or seasonal conditions)

 

OTHER

  • Lunch 
  • Water

 

 

TRIP CANCELLATION & INTERRUPTION INSURANCE

The best method to protect your investment with us should unforeseen arise, requiring you cancel your booking, is to purchase a Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance Policy. 

Acera Insurance has covered many of Cloud Nine Guests on trips all over the world, and we have first-hand experience seeing these policies activated by our Guests. 

Safeguard your trip costs and investment with us. Request a Quote from Acera Insurance.

Is this coverage required?

  • For Canadian Residents, coverage is suggested but not required to register.
  • For Non-Canadian Citizens, coverage is suggested but not required. It is strongly suggested that your policy includes Emergency Medical Coverage, unless you carry an alternative policy which will respond in the event of medical emergency.

 

WAIVER - Release of Liability & Indemnity Agreement

Prior to booking you will be required to acknowledge that you have been provided a copy of our Waiver of Liability Agreement for your review. All participants, or their legal guardians wishing to participate on any Cloud Nine Programs, must acknowledge that they have been presented this document, have read it in its entirety, and understand the agreement being entered into by signing. While there is no obligation to enter into this agreement with us, it is a condition of our service provision. 

    REVIEW OUR WAIVER OF LIABILITY HERE

 

Booking TErms & Conditions

Before you book your course, please review our Booking Terms & Conditions. We do not accept bookings without your voluntary acceptance of these terms. Please read carefully as these terms outline specific policies and guidance for both our staff and clients with respect to refunds, cancellations, rescheduling, credit forward, refund exemptions etc.

    REVIEW OUR BOOKING TERMS & CONDITIONS HERE

 

Book A PRIVATE Sport Multi-Pitch Leader Course: 

For those who prefer our smallest and most focused learning environments. Private Groups can book on course dates that suit you and your crew best, and one of our ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guides will join you on your terms. You pick the Group Size, along with a Field Day venue and date outside those listed on the calendar.

How Do We Book It?

Contact our office to confirm availability for your preferred dates. We'll provide you with a private booking link for you and your group to register either together or individually.

OUTDOOR ROCK LEADER INTENSIVES

ORTOVOX - Proud Supporting Partner of the Outdoor Rock Climbing Series Courses
Cloud Nine Mountain Guides are Internationally IFMGA Certified
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