Mount FAy - 3234M

3 DAY GUIDED ASCENT PROGRAMS WITH OUR INTERNATIONALLY CERTIFIED MOUNTAIN GUIDES
 

One of the most popular 3 Day Ascent Programs, and a definite favourite amongst our Guiding Team. Departing from Moraine Lake near Lake Louise, this trip provides some of the most varied and interesting climbing opportunities of any of our 3 Day alpine climbing trips. Departing Moraine Lake, our approach day includes everything from a beautiful lakeside hike, moderate scrambling terrain, 5 pitches of rock climbing, topped with a glaciated traverse all arriving at The Neil Colgan Hut, our base for the trip. 

From the hut, our main objective, Mount Fay can be climbed via a variety of routes and expect our Guides to work with you to find the route that matches conditions with your motivations and goals. Classic routes we ascend to the summit include:

  • The West Ridge - PD / 5.3 / 40˚ Ice / 300m
  • Center Ice Bulge Direct - AD+ / 80˚ Ice / 300m
  • Chouinard Route - AD+ / 90˚ Ice / 300m

For those keen on one last alpine start, our final day often includes an additional Summit of Mount Little and Mount Bowlen, prior to reversing the Perren route via a series of rappels and short roping back to the shores of Moraine Lake. With rave reviews from our Guests, this is one of the more popular 3 day ascent programs in our lineup - drop us a line to book this season.

  Check out the image above to see one of our teams tunnelling through the exit cornice on an ascent of the Center Ice Bulge Direct! 
 

 3 Day Ascent Program

THE PERFECT ALPINE TRIP FOR COMPRESSED SCHEDULES
 

 2 NIGHT STAY AT THE NEIL COLGAN HUT INCLUDED*

A PERFECT BASE FOR OUR SUMMIT BIDS (*COVID ALTERNATIVES MAY APPLY)
 

 COMPLETE MEAL PROGRAM INCLUDED

3 DAY OF MOUNTAIN MEALS INCLUDED TO KEEP YOU MOVING
 

 ALL TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT INCLUDED

SUPPORTED BY OUR PARTNERS AT BLACK DIAMOND EQUIPMENT
 

 Experienced IFMGA Mountain Guides

INTERNATIONALLY CERTIFIED GUIDES WITH 10-30 YEARS EXPERIENCE

 

DAY 1

On our first day, you will Meet Your Guide Here in the village of Lake Louise at ~ 0600hrs where we'll start with a brief round of introductions and a pre-departure briefing which will include the following: 

  • Review of any expected changes to weather or climbing conditions.
  • Expected Hazards, risk management plan, and associated mitigations for the duration of the trip.
  • Distribution and repacking of meal program and trip food for participants
  • Distribution of any required technical equipment you require
  • Presentation of physical Waiver of Liability Document & Signing. 

The Moraine Lake area is often one of the busiest trailheads in the Lake Louise area and Banff National Park through the summer months. So with that in mind, your Guide will travel with you (often leading in their own vehicle) from the Village centre to clear any traffic controls at the lower end of the Moraine Lake Road with you. 

After arriving, there may be a short wait to acquire parking at the upper Moraine Lake Parking Lot. Once parked, we'll depart in way of travel along the western shore of Moraine Lake to begin our ascent. 

Our ascent route most commonly follows what's know as the Perren Route approach to the Neil Colgan Hut. Check it out here on FATMAP.

Typically ascent times during periods of stable weather and ideal climbing conditions will be on average between 7-8 hours. During more inclement, or slower climbing conditions approach times to the Neil Colgan Hut can reach upwards of 11-12 hours.

After arriving at the Neil Colgan Hut, you'll have plenty of time to settle in, unpack and drink in the views while your Guide begins to prepare drinks, appetizers + soup as well as dinner for the team. 

Expect some time in the evening to discuss the following day, the feasibility of specific ascent routes for your Mount Fay ascent, and time to pack and prepare for the following day's departure
 

Day 2 

Our second day will be our attempt for a summit of Mount Fay. Your Guide will be up at approximately 0400hrs, prepping coffee / tea and breakfast for the team. Typically the team will depart the hut between 0430hrs and 0500hrs. From the hut to the base of the peak typically requires about an hour.

Beginning the ascent, access to the upper mountain will require the team to cross the long bergschrund (crevasse), guarding the bottom of the peak and ascend upward to gain 1 of the ice faces held on the North Face. For teams climbing the West Ridge Route, the ice face ascended is roughly 90m in length and approximately 40˚ - 45˚. For the other route options on the North Face, these ice faces make up two thirds or more of the total ascent. Typically 300m of ice up to 90˚ can make up the route; Center Ice Bulge Direct & The Chouinard Route.

Typically under normal conditions, ascents via any of the routes available will put teams on the summit between 0900-1100hrs. Regardless of the route ascended, descent is almost always via the West Ridge Route, with a return to the Neil Colgan Hut by roughly mid afternoon.
 

Day 3 

On our last day of the trip, Guests will have a number of options open to them for the day. Immediately surrounding the hut are two additional peaks which can be ascended before departing for our descent to the valley floor. 

  • Mount Little - 3088m
  • Mount Bowlen - 3072m

Despite their summit elevations landing above 3000m, both these peaks can be quick ascents from the Neil Colgan Hut, and great additions to a Mount Fay Summit. For Guests interested on an extra ascent (or two), our morning will start with breakfast around 0500hrs, aiming for departure around 0600hrs. Typically an ascent of Mount Little will take 1hr return from the hut, while Mount Bowlen will require the same.

Regardless of whether teams elect to add these two additional summits, we'll aim to leave the Neil Colgan to begin our descent back to Moraine Lake at approximately 0930hrs. The descent typically requires between 4-6 hours, via a series of rappels, down climbing, and 4th class scrambling. 

Teams can expect to be wrapping up their program between 1200-1500hrs depending on the morning's activity.

Guide : Guest Ratios

Guide to Guest Ratios on the Mount Fay Programs are limited to 1 Guide : 2 Guests, given the consistently technical nature of the trip.
 

Travel to the columbia Icefields

Our suggestions for your most efficient way to access the program venue from a variety of locations and international ports of entry:

  • Calgary (YYC) to Lake Louise:
    • Those Guests traveling from, or arriving by air at Calgary International Airport: Your most efficient route to join us for the program start in Lake Louise will be through our base in Canmore, Alberta. A rental car may be required, though public transfers or transportation options are also available to you.
      Find a travel plan here

  • Edmonton (YEG) to The Lake Louise: 
    • Those Guests travelling from, or arriving by air at Edmonton International Airport: Typically this will require travel via Rocky Mountain House then Saskatchewan River Crossing, turning south on HWY 93N toward Lake Louise. A rental car or personal transportation will be required.
      Find a travel plan here.

  • Travelling from British Columbia: 
    • For our Guests travelling and arriving from locations in British Columbia: Please use the following map link to aid in your planning and arrival in Lake Louise. 
      Our Meeting Point in Lake Louise
       

Transfers from Calgary international Airport:

Transfers are available departing Calgary International, arriving in Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise. We'd suggest The Banff Airporter for those requiring transfers from Calgary.

Early ARRIVALS

ACCOMMODATION & TRIP PREP

For those looking to arrive early ahead of your program, our base in Canmore, Alberta as well as the townsite of Banff, a further 20 minute drive inside the East Gates of Banff National Park, offer a variety or useful pre-trip amenities and comfortable accommodation options. Following are our suggestions for accommodation and gear and equipment retailers to help you prepare:

  • ACCOMMODATION:
     
  • GEAR PURCHASES PRE-COURSE:

    For those looking to purchase gear and equipment prior to your course, we would suggest the following local Bow Valley retailers:

    • Vertical Addiction
      • Located in Canmore, Vertical Addiction offers a complete selection of technical climbing, mountaineering and ski equipment along with a broad selection of technical clothing. 
         
    • Monods Sports
      • Located in Banff, Monods is one of the longest operating outdoor equipment and clothing retailers in the Bow Valley. Monods have a large selection of technical clothing and equipment offerings.
         
    • Black Diamond Equipment
      • Our Affiliate Partners at Black Diamond Equipment are our first choice for technical clothing and equipment. Check out their broad range of technical clothing and equipment and purchase at either Monods or Vertical Addiction locally.
         

Mountain Meal Program

INCLUDED IN YOUR PROGRAM FEE

A complete Meal Program starts with Dinner on Day 1 and concludes with Lunch on Day 3. Please pack a lunch for your first program day, for the ascent to the Neil Colgan Hut. 

Dietary restrictions can be accommodated. Please contact our Program Managers at the office for more information on Gluten Free, Lactose Free, Paleo or allergy restrictions for your trip.

 

Required Equipment & Personal Items

  • Trekking Pole
  • Water Bottle 1L
  • Mountaineering Boots (must accept crampons)
  • Sunglasses + Spares
  • Blister Kit (optional, but suggested)
  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ minimum
  • Camera, batteries, memory cards etc.
  • Pack 35-45L (if bringing a larger, non-compressible sleeping bag 50L is suggested)
  • Gaiters (optional)

Cloud Nine Guides Will Provide The Following Gear if Requested:

  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • 3 Locking Carabiners
  • 120cm sewn sling
  • ATC / Tube Style Belay Device
  • 2 Prussik Cords / 5m long x 6mm diameter, min 10kn strength
  • Ice Axe 
  • Crampons
     

Clothing:

  • Wool / Synthetic Blend Socks (2-3 pairs)
  • Base Layers (top and bottoms, wool or synthetic)
  • Mid Layers (approx 200 weight, wool or synthetic insulation)
  • Softshell Jacket & Pants
  • Gore-Tex Jacket & Pants
  • Buff Style Neck Tube
  • Warm Hut (able to fit under helmet)
  • Sun Hut - Ball Cap or Full Brim
  • Heavy Gloves (primarily for warmth when stopped)
  • Lightweight, Dexterous, Climbing Specific Golves (2 Pairs)
  • Lightweight & Warm Down or Synthetic Insulated Parka

 

Overnight Items:

  • Alarm Clock
  • Toiletries + Small Hand Sanitizer + N95 Masks or similar
  • Headlamp with Fresh Batteries
  • iPod, Smartphone or Similar
  • Ear Plugs
  • Lightweight Hut Footwear
  • Lightweight Sleeping Bag (rated -2˚C to -8˚C)

 

Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance

The best method to protect your investment with us should unforeseen is to purchase a Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance Policy. We strongly recommend purchasing coverage.

Lifestyle Insurance has covered many of Cloud Nine Guests on trips all over the world, and we have first hand experience seeing these policies activated by our Guests. 

Safeguard your trip costs and investment with us. Request a Quote from Lifestyle Financial.

Is this coverage required?

  • For Canadian Residents, coverage is suggested by not required to register.
  • For Non-Canadian Citizens, coverage is suggested but not required. It is strongly suggested that your policy includes Emergency Medical Coverage, unless you carry alternative policy which will respond in the event of medical emergency.

 

WAIVER - Release of Liability & Indemnity Agreement

Prior to booking you will be required to acknowledge that you have been provided a copy of our Waiver of Liability Agreement for your review. All participants, or their legal guardians wishing to participate on any Cloud Nine Programs, must acknowledge that they have been presented this document in advance of booking, have read it in its entirety, and understand the agreement being entered into by signing. While there is no obligation to enter into this agreement with us, it is a condition of our service provision. 

   REVIEW OUR WAIVER OF LIABILITY HERE

 

Booking TErms & Conditions

Before you book your course, please review our Booking Terms & Conditions. We do not accept bookings without your voluntary acceptance of these terms. Please read carefully as these terms outline specific policies and guidance for both our staff and clients with respect to refunds, cancellations, rescheduling etc.

   REVIEW OUR BOOKING TERMS & CONDITIONS HERE