Mount victoria & The Abbot Pass Alpine - 3464M

GUIDED ASCENTS OF MOUNTS VICTORIA, LEFROY & HUBER ON THIS 2 OR 3-DAY ASCENT PROGRAM
 

Few Summits are more photographed in the Western Canadian National Parks than Mount Victoria, or steeped in mountaineering history than the Abbot Pass. Between 1899 & 1911, The Swiss Guides arrived to work seasonally for the Canadian Pacific Railway at the Chateau Lake Louise, Guiding early Guests into the high mountains. In 1929, transporting most of the materials by mule train up the Death Trap Glacier, the Guides built and opened the Abbot Pass Hut as a base for ascents. Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy have been some of the longest standing and most sought after high alpine climbing venues by Alpinists in Canada for nearly 100 years.

There are a variety of options for this ascent program, as climbing venues can be approached by either Lake Louise, or more commonly via Lake O'Hara. Our most popular itinerary departs from Lake O'Hara, ascending The Huber Ledges. On Day 1, we aim for a summit of Mount Huber (3368M.) and high bivouac along the summit ridge of Mount Victoria. On our two day programs, Day 2 holds our summit attempt of Mount Victoria (3464M.) early in the day, followed by our descent back to Lake O'Hara via Abbot Pass. 

Want to add an extra day? An additional bivouac just above the Abbott Pass and an added 3rd day allows our teams a summit attempt of Mount Lefroy (3423M.) wrapping up our 3-Day Programs with a descent back to Lake O'Hara. 

3-Day Itineraries including Mount Lefroy are best booked between June and mid-July for best ascent conditions.

 

 2 OR 3-Day Ascent ProgramS

THE PERFECT ALPINE TRIP FOR A (LONG) WEEKEND OUT
 

 HIGH ALPINE BIVOUAC

WAKE UP TO A SUNRISE AT 3000M.
 

 MEAL PROGRAM Options Available

ADD ON MOUNTAIN MEALS TO KEEP YOU MOVING
 

 ALL TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT INCLUDED

SUPPORTED BY OUR PARTNERS AT BLACK DIAMOND EQUIPMENT
 

 Experienced IFMGA Mountain Guides

INTERNATIONALLY CERTIFIED GUIDES WITH 10-30 YEARS EXPERIENCE

 

 

 

3-DAY ASCENT PROGRAM

 

2-DAY ASCENT PROGRAM

 

ITINERARY

 

ARRIVAL & PRE-ASCENT

7 days in advance of your ascent our Program Managers will touch base to provide you with an update on expected route conditions, avalanche hazards (if applicable), and expected weather for your ascent day. Your Guide(s) will be in touch 24-48hrs in advance of departure at a minimum, to further discuss final logistics and your expectations, for your trip with us.

 

VIA LAKE O'HARA

 

DAY 1

On our first day, you will Meet Your Guide Here at the Lake O'Hara parking area at ~ 0730hrs where we'll start with a brief round of introductions and a pre-departure briefing which will include the following:

  • Review of any expected changes to weather or climbing conditions
  • Expected Hazards, risk management plan, and associated mitigations for the duration of the trip
  • Distribution and repacking of meal program and trip food for participants
  • Distribution of any required technical equipment you require
  • Presentation of physical Waiver of Liability Document & Signing

We will board the first bus to Lake O'Hara at 0830hrs that takes us 11km up to fire road.

Once out of the bus, our ascent route takes us past Wiwaxy Gap up to the Huber Ledges, where our first section of traverses and scrambling awaits. From there, we will rope up for the Huber Glacier, navigating it up till catching the northeast ridge to the summit of Mount Huber (3368M.) conditions allowing.

After retracing our steps back to the Huber Glacier, we will ascend to the southeast ridge of Mount Victoria - our high bivy location for the night.

With an ascent time between 4-5 hours, you'll have the late afternoon to settle in, unpack, and take in the views, while your Guide begins to prepare drinks, appetizers + soup as well as dinner for the team. 

Expect some time in the evening to discuss the following day, the feasibility of the exposed southeast ridge ascent to Mount Victoria South, and time to pack and prepare for the following day's departure.

 

DAY 2

Our second day will be our attempt for the true South summit of Mount Victoria. Your Guide will be up at approximately 0400hrs, prepping coffee / tea and breakfast for the team. Typically the team will depart the bivy location between 0430hrs and 0500hrs.

We will make our way up the exposed Southeast Ridge, reaching the southern summit of Mount Victoria (3464M.) in approximately an hour.

After enjoying the summit views for a moment, we will begin our ascent down the southeast ridge to the historical Abbot Pass.

From there we will descend the hiking trails past Lake Oesa and the northern shore of Lake O'Hara to where our ascent begun the day prior. With a distance of 8km, including an elevation gain of 260m and a loss of 1580m, the 2nd day is expected to take 6-7hrs under normal conditions, placing the team back in Lake O'Hara in time for the 1430hrs bus to the parking area.

 

VIA LAKE LOUISE

 

DAY 1

On our first day, you will Meet Your Guide Here in the village of Lake Louise at ~ 0600hrs where we'll start with a brief round of introductions and a pre-departure briefing which will include the following: 

  • Review of any expected changes to weather or climbing conditions
  • Expected Hazards, risk management plan, and associated mitigations for the duration of the trip
  • Distribution and repacking of meal program and trip food for participants
  • Distribution of any required technical equipment you require
  • Presentation of physical Waiver of Liability Document & Signing

Lake Louise is one of the busiest areas within Banff National Park through the summer months. So with that in mind, your Guide will travel with you (often leading in their own vehicle) from the Village centre to clear any traffic controls on your way to the Lake Louise Parking Lot. Once parked, we'll part in way of travel along the western shore of Lake Louise to begin our ascent.

Our ascent route most commonly follows the Plain of Six Glaciers trail till diverting towards the toe of Victoria Glacier - our bivouac location for the night.

With an ascent time of approximately 3 hours, you'll have plenty of time to settle in, unpack, and take in the views while your Guide begins to prepare drinks, appetizers + soup as well as dinner for the team. 

Expect some time in the evening to discuss the following day, the feasibility of specific ascent routes for your Mount Victoria ascent, and time to pack and prepare for the following day's departure.
 

Day 2 

Our second day will be our attempt for a summit of Mount Victoria. Your Guide will be up at approximately 0400hrs, prepping coffee / tea and breakfast for the team. Typically the team will depart the bivy location between 0430hrs and 0500hrs. 

Beginning the ascent, access to the upper mountain will require the team to cross the long bergschrund (crevasse) onto the steeper snowy slopes that we'll follow to the rock band between North Victoria and Mount Collier. From here, we'll either climb a short rock band or traverse it to gain access to the Northeast Ridge, which will lead us to the summit.

After taking in the summit views, the team will begin the descent back towards the Lake Louise. Typically, under normal conditions, you can expect the summit day to take 10-12 hours, placing the team at the Lake Louise Parking Area by 1700hrs by the latest.
 

 

LOGISTICS

 

Guide : Guest Ratios

Given the technical nature of the routes climbed to the Summits in the Abbot Pass area, Guide to Guest ratios are limited for this program to 1 Guide to 2 Guests.
 

Travel to Lake Louise

Our suggestions for your most efficient way to access the program venue from a variety of locations and international ports of entry:

  • Calgary (YYC) to Lake Louise:
    • Those Guests traveling from, or arriving by air at Calgary International Airport: Your most efficient route to join us for the program start in Lake Louise will be through our base in Canmore, Alberta. A rental car may be required, though public transfers or transportation options are also available to you.
      Find a travel plan here.

  • Edmonton (YEG) to The Lake Louise: 
    • Those Guests travelling from, or arriving by air at Edmonton International Airport: Typically this will require travel via Rocky Mountain House then Saskatchewan River Crossing, turning south on HWY 93N toward Lake Louise. A rental car or personal transportation will be required.
      Find a travel plan here.

  • Travelling from British Columbia: 
    • For our Guests travelling and arriving from locations in British Columbia: Please use the following map link to aid in your planning and arrival in Lake Louise. 
      Our Meeting Point in Lake Louise
       

Transfers from Calgary international Airport:

Transfers are available departing Calgary International, arriving in Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise. We'd suggest The Banff Airporter for those requiring transfers from Calgary.

Early ARRIVALS

ACCOMMODATION & TRIP PREP

For those looking to arrive early ahead of your program, our base in Canmore, Alberta as well as the townsite of Banff, a further 20 minute drive inside the East Gates of Banff National Park, offer a variety or useful pre-trip amenities and comfortable accommodation options. Following are our suggestions for accommodation and gear and equipment retailers to help you prepare:

  • ACCOMMODATION:
     
  • GEAR PURCHASES PRE-TRIP:

    For those looking to purchase gear and equipment prior to your course, we would suggest the following local Bow Valley retailers:

    • Vertical Addiction
      • Located in Canmore, Vertical Addiction offers a complete selection of technical climbing, mountaineering and ski equipment along with a broad selection of technical clothing. 
         
    • SkiUphill
      • Located in Canmore, SkiUphill is a collective of experience driven individuals each with their own history, knowledge and stories of getting out there and getting after it. They offer expertise in backcountry skiing, trail running, climbing and any combination of those activities all while offering the best selection of curated equipment. 
         
    • Monods Sports
      • Located in Banff, Monods is one of the longest operating outdoor equipment and clothing retailers in the Bow Valley. Monods have a large selection of technical clothing and equipment offerings.
         
    • Ortovox
      • Our Partners at Ortovox are known for their high-quality technical outerwear and are a supporting partner of C9G and our ski guiding programs.
         
    • Black Diamond Equipment
      • Black Diamond Equipment has been providing skiers and alpinists with technical equipment since 1989, and is a supporting partner of C9G and our guided ski programs.

 

Mountain Meal Program OPtions AVailable

Please contact our Program Managers, for information on meal program options. 

Dietary restrictions can be accommodated. Please contact our Program Managers at the office for more information on Gluten Free, Lactose Free, Paleo or allergy restrictions for your trip.
 

NATIONAL PARK ENTRY PASSES

Guests are responsible for obtaining a National Park entry pass for the duration of the program. 

 

Required Equipment & Personal Items

  • Trekking Pole
  • Water Bottle 1L
  • Mountaineering Boots (must accept crampons)
  • Sunglasses + Spares
  • Blister Kit (optional, but suggested)
  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ minimum
  • Camera, batteries, memory cards etc.
  • Pack 35-45L (if bringing a larger, non-compressible sleeping bag 50L is suggested)
  • Gaiters (optional)

Cloud Nine Guides Will Provide The Following Gear if Requested:

  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • 3 Locking Carabiners
  • 120cm sewn sling
  • ATC / Tube Style Belay Device
  • 2 Prussik Cords / 5m long x 6mm diameter, min 10kn strength
  • Ice Axe 
  • Crampons
     

Clothing:

  • Wool / Synthetic Blend Socks (2-3 pairs)
  • Base Layers (top and bottoms, wool or synthetic)
  • Mid Layers (approx 200 weight, wool or synthetic insulation)
  • Softshell Jacket & Pants
  • Gore-Tex Jacket & Pants
  • Buff Style Neck Tube
  • Warm Hut (able to fit under helmet)
  • Sun Hut - Ball Cap or Full Brim
  • Heavy Gloves (primarily for warmth when stopped)
  • Lightweight, Dexterous, Climbing Specific Golves (2 Pairs)
  • Lightweight & Warm Down or Synthetic Insulated Parka

 

Overnight Items:

  • Alarm Clock
  • Toiletries + Small Hand Sanitizer + N95 Masks or similar
  • Headlamp with Fresh Batteries
  • iPod, Smartphone or Similar
  • Ear Plugs
  • Lightweight Hut Footwear
  • Lightweight Sleeping Bag (rated -2˚C to -8˚C)

 

Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance

The best method to protect your investment with us should unforeseen is to purchase a Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance Policy. We strongly recommend purchasing coverage.

Lifestyle Insurance has covered many of Cloud Nine Guests on trips all over the world, and we have first hand experience seeing these policies activated by our Guests. 

Safeguard your trip costs and investment with us. Request a Quote from Lifestyle Financial.

Is this coverage required?

  • For Canadian Residents, coverage is suggested by not required to register.
  • For Non-Canadian Citizens, coverage is suggested but not required. It is strongly suggested that your policy includes Emergency Medical Coverage, unless you carry alternative policy which will respond in the event of medical emergency.

 

WAIVER - Release of Liability & Indemnity Agreement

Prior to booking you will be required to acknowledge that you have been provided a copy of our Waiver of Liability Agreement for your review. All participants, or their legal guardians wishing to participate on any Cloud Nine Programs, must acknowledge that they have been presented this document in advance of booking, have read it in its entirety, and understand the agreement being entered into by signing. While there is no obligation to enter into this agreement with us, it is a condition of our service provision. 

   REVIEW OUR WAIVER OF LIABILITY HERE

 

Booking TErms & Conditions

Before you book your course, please review our Booking Terms & Conditions. We do not accept bookings without your voluntary acceptance of these terms. Please read carefully as these terms outline specific policies and guidance for both our staff and clients with respect to refunds, cancellations, rescheduling etc.

   REVIEW OUR BOOKING TERMS & CONDITIONS HERE

 

Book a free consultation

Book a phone call or video call with either of our Program Managers or with our Director of Operations.

This is an excellent preliminary step towards booking a trip with us. It allows us to better understand your requirements and needs for your desired objective. 

ORTOVOX - Proud Supporting Partner of the Outdoor Rock Climbing Series Courses
Cloud Nine Mountain Guides are Internationally IFMGA Certified
Rock Courses Supported by Black Diamond Equipment