Mount Assiniboine - 3618M

3, 4, AND 5-DAY GUIDED ASCENTS WITH OUR IFMGA CERTIFIED C9 MOUNTAIN GUIDES
 

The peak is know to many as The Matterhorn of the Canadian Rockies. Since its first ascent in 1901, the peak's prominence on the skyline of the Rockies has drawn climbers to its iconic flanks for more than a century. Despite its prominence, the peak is generally ascended at the relatively moderate technical grade of 5.5 with features known as the Red Band and the Grey Band on the upper peak holding most of the interest. 

Located 30km southwest of our base in Canmore, Alberta, Mount Assiniboine sits on the continental divide in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, closely flanked by the boarder with the neighbouring Banff National Park. Its location provides a summit that sits well above the surrounding peaks, leaving our time on top feeling like the world is unfurling at your feet. 

In dry conditions (July - August), the peak can be straightforward. However, given its prominence amongst the surrounding peaks, the summit block is often shrouded in cloud and can leave the team with anything from summer snow to verglass to wet rock, particularly at upper elevations. 

The peak first and foremost requires that we have the ability to maintain a consistent pace throughout a full day. In dry conditions, those with rock climbing experience, either indoors or outside, and basic scrambling experience will often find the route well within their abilities on our Guided Ascents. During period of inclement weather, however, we suggest that Guests come prepared with basic knowledge of movement techniques using crampons and an ice axe. Pre-ascent training can certainly be provided.

We access the area with flights departing by helicopter from the Canmore Heliport (or Mount Shark) to Assiniboine Lodge, and provide the options of 3, 4, or 5-day ascent programs to match the weekly helicopter access schedules.

Touch base with our team to get a detailed ascent proposal, outline of our meal programs, equipment provision, and get to know a few of our support staff as well as the IFMGA Mountain Guides you can share the rope with on this incredible adventure.

 

 3, 4 or 5-Day Ascent ProgramS

APPROACH - CLIMB - RETURN, OR ADD A BACK UP ASCENT DAY
 

 HEli to Assiniboine Lodge included

ROUND TRIP HELICOPTER ACCESS DIRECT FROM CANMORE
 

 COMPLETE MEAL PROGRAM Available

ADD ON MOUNTAIN MEALS TO KEEP YOU MOVING
 

 ALL TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT INCLUDED

SUPPORTED BY OUR PARTNERS AT BLACK DIAMOND EQUIPMENT
 

 Experienced IFMGA Mountain Guides

INTERNATIONALLY CERTIFIED GUIDES WITH 10-30 YEARS EXPERIENCE

 

 

 

ITINERARY

 

ARRIVAL & PRE-ASCENT

7 days in advance of your ascent, our Program Managers will touch base to provide you with an update on expected route conditions, avalanche hazards (if applicable), and expected weather for your ascent day. Your Guide(s) will be in touch 24-48hrs in advance of departure at a minimum to further discuss final logistics and your expectations for your trip with us.

 

DAY 1

On our first day, you will Meet Your Guide Here in the town of Canmore, Alpine Helicopters Heliport at ~ 0700hrs. Here we'll start with a brief round of introductions and a pre-departure briefing with your Mountain Guide, which will include the following: 

  • Review of any expected changes to weather or climbing conditions on Mount Assiniboine and the Gmoser Highway approach route
  • Expected Hazards, risk management plan, and associated mitigations for the duration of the trip
  • Helicopter Safety Briefing
  • Distribution and repacking of meal program and trip food for participants
  • Distribution of any required technical equipment
  • Presentation of physical Waiver of Liability Document & Signing

Following the above, you and your Guide will transfer to one of the two helicopter stagings to prepare for your flight into Mount Assiniboine Lodge. Our Guides have in many cases decades of experience working with helicopters in mountain environments and our local pilots. Your Guide will provide you with a short briefing on how best to move and operate safely around the helicopter during and pre-flight. This will be followed by a group briefing provided by your pilot from Alpine Helicopters per Canadian Department of Transportation regulations.

There are two departure points for our flights inbound and returning. First, direct from the town of Canmore at the Alpine Helicopters Heliport. Second, a forward staging area near Mount Shark on the Smith Dorrien trail, approximately 30min from Canmore. 

A flight of roughly 15-20min provides incredible views from the air of both Mount Assiniboine Park and the peak itself as we approach the lodge. 

Dropping our teams at Assiniboine Lodge, we'll depart immediately, destined for the RC Hind Hut at the base of the peak. Following the western shores along Lake Magog, we follow a weakness in the cliffs above the lake known as the Gmoser Highway, providing access to the basin above and the hut location.

Provided the Hut is open (the norm), our teams will base from the small structure for the duration of the program.

After arrival, your guide will begin to prepare the evening meal, and will help you settle in and begin to pack for your summit attempt the following day.

 

Day 2 

Our second day will be your first opportunity to summit. For those booking our 3-day itinerary, we'll do everything possible to get you successfully to the top. For those who have booked our 4-day itinerary, should we not be successful on our first attempt, you will have 1 additional day for an attempt. 

Our Mountain Guides most commonly ascend the peak via the N Ridge. Get a birds eye view of our ascent route by clicking here.

Ascent times may vary. In dry conditions, with parties moving well, the peak can be climbed comfortably in 8-10 hours return to the hut. Given that the window for ascents with dry conditions on the peak is often very short, teams can expect upwards of 10-15hrs on the peak if climbing conditions are slower due to the presence of wet rock, recent snowfall, or verglass. 

After a full day in a bid for the summit, you'll be back at the Hind Hut in the evening.

 

Day 3 

For those on our 3-Day Itinerary, this will be our return day to Assiniboine Lodge where we catch our flights outbound to either Canmore or Mount Shark helicopter staging. Your Guide will be in contact with Assiniboine Lodge via radio to coordinate flight times, and if possible will arrange for one of the last flights available to give you the time to either attempt an additional minor peak in the area, or to descend at a more casual pace while reversing the Gmoser Highway back to Lake Magog. 

For those on our 4-Day Itinerary, this day will provide a backup day for a summit attempt should the team require it. Given the prominence of the peak and the commonly challenging climbing conditions, this additional summit day provides a fall back for those who want the best likelihood of reaching the Mount Assiniboine's summit.

Based on our Guest feedback, we suggest the 4-Day Program for the best chances of a successful ascent.

 

Day 4 

For those on our 4-Day Itinerary, this will be your return day to Assiniboine Lodge and flights outbound to Canmore or Mount Shark. Again, every effort will be made to arrange a later flight time to allow you and your Guide the time for an additional minor summit in the area if you are inclined to it.

 

LOGISTICS

 

Guide : Guest Ratios

Given the technical nature of the route as well as its magnitude, we only offer this peak ascent at 1:1 Guide to Guest Ratios. 

If you would like to book the ascent as a team of 2 or more, we can provide either an additional IFMGA Mountain Guide, or for a reduced rate, the services of an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide who is to be directly supervised by our IFMGA Mountain Guides on route. Please contact our office and Program Managers for more details prior to booking for any discounted options available.
 

Travel to Canmore

Our suggestions for your most efficient way to access the program venue from a variety of locations and international ports of entry:

  • Calgary (YYC) to Canmore:
    • Those Guests traveling from or arriving by air at Calgary International Airport: Your most efficient route to join us for the program start in Lake Louise will be through our base in Canmore, Alberta. A rental car may be required, though public transfers or transportation options are also available to you.
      Find a travel plan here.

  • Edmonton (YEG) to Canmore: 
    • Those Guests travelling from or arriving by air at Edmonton International Airport: Typically this will require travel via Rocky Mountain House then Saskatchewan River Crossing, turning south on HWY 93N toward Lake Louise. A rental car or personal transportation will be required.
      Find a travel plan here.

  • Travelling from British Columbia: 
    • For our Guests travelling and arriving from locations in British Columbia: Please use the following map link to aid in your planning and arrival in Lake Louise. 
      Our Meeting Point in Canmore
       

Transfers from Calgary international Airport:

Transfers are available departing Calgary International, arriving in Canmore and Banff. We'd suggest The Banff Airporter for those requiring transfer services.

Early ARRIVALS

ACCOMMODATION & TRIP PREP

For those looking to arrive early ahead of your program, there are a variety of useful pre-trip amenities and comfortable accommodation options around our base in Canmore, Alberta, the townsite of Banff, a further 20-minute drive inside the East Gates of Banff National Park, and Lake Louise. The following are our suggestions for accommodation as well as gear and equipment retailers to help you prepare post-arrival:

  • ACCOMMODATION:
     
  • GEAR PURCHASES PRE-TRIP:

    For those looking to purchase gear and equipment prior to your course, we would suggest the following local Bow Valley retailers:

    • Vertical Addiction
      • Located in Canmore, Vertical Addiction offers a complete selection of technical climbing, mountaineering and ski equipment along with a broad selection of technical clothing. 
         
    • SkiUphill
      • Located in Canmore, SkiUphill is a collective of experience driven individuals each with their own history, knowledge and stories of getting out there and getting after it. They offer expertise in backcountry skiing, trail running, climbing and any combination of those activities all while offering the best selection of curated equipment. 
         
    • Monods Sports
      • Located in Banff, Monods is one of the longest operating outdoor equipment and clothing retailers in the Bow Valley. Monods has a large selection of technical clothing and equipment offerings.
         
    • Ortovox
      • Our Partners at Ortovox are known for their high-quality technical outerwear and are a supporting partner of C9G and our ski guiding programs.
         
    • Black Diamond Equipment
      • Black Diamond Equipment has been providing skiers and alpinists with technical equipment since 1989, and is a supporting partner of C9G and our guided ski programs.

 

Mountain Meal Program

MOUNTAIN MEAL PROGRAM AVAILABLE 

A complete Meal Program starts with Dinner on Day 1 and concludes with lunch on your final trip day. Please contact our program managers on meal program options and they can put you in touch with the right people.

Dietary restrictions can be accommodated, reach out for more information on Gluten Free, Lactose Free, Paleo, or allergy restrictions for your trip.

 

Required Equipment & Personal Items

  • Trekking Pole
  • Water Bottle 1L
  • Mountaineering Boots (must accept crampons)
  • Sunglasses + Spares
  • Blister Kit (optional, but suggested)
  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ minimum
  • Camera, batteries, memory cards etc.
  • Pack 35-45L (if bringing a larger, non-compressible sleeping bag 50L is suggested)
  • Gaiters (optional)

Cloud Nine Guides Will Provide The Following Gear if Requested:

  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • 3 Locking Carabiners
  • 120cm sewn sling
  • ATC / Tube Style Belay Device
  • 2 Prussik Cords / 5m long x 6mm diameter, min 10kn strength
  • Ice Axe 
  • Crampons
     

ESSENTIAL Clothing

  • Wool / Synthetic Blend Socks (2-3 pairs)
  • Base Layers (top and bottoms, wool or synthetic)
  • Mid Layers (approx. 200 weight, wool or synthetic insulation)
  • Softshell Jacket & Pants
  • Gore-Tex Jacket & Pants
  • Buff Style Neck Tube
  • Warm Hut (able to fit under helmet)
  • Sun Hut - Ball Cap or Full Brim
  • Heavy Gloves (primarily for warmth when stopped)
  • Lightweight, Dexterous, Climbing Specific Gloves (2 Pairs)
  • Warm Down or Synthetic Insulated Parka

 

Overnight Items

  • Alarm Clock
  • Toiletries + Small Hand Sanitizer
  • Headlamp with Fresh Batteries
  • iPod, Smartphone or Similar
  • Ear Plugs
  • Lightweight Hut Footwear
  • Lightweight Sleeping Bag (rated -2˚C to -8˚C)

 

TRIP CANCELLATION & INTERRUPTION INSURANCE

The best method to protect your investment with us should unforeseen arise, requiring you cancel your booking, is to purchase a Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance Policy. 

Lifestyle Insurance has covered many of Cloud Nine Guests on trips all over the world, and we have first-hand experience seeing these policies activated by our Guests. 

Safeguard your trip costs and investment with us. Request a Quote from Lifestyle Financial.

Is this coverage required?

  • For Canadian Residents, coverage is suggested but not required to register.
  • For Non-Canadian Citizens, coverage is suggested but not required. It is strongly suggested that your policy includes Emergency Medical Coverage, unless you carry an alternative policy which will respond in the event of medical emergency.

 

WAIVER - Release of Liability & Indemnity Agreement

Prior to booking you will be required to acknowledge that you have been provided a copy of our Waiver of Liability Agreement for your review. All participants, or their legal guardians wishing to participate on any Cloud Nine Programs, must acknowledge that they have been presented this document in advance of booking, have read it in its entirety, and understand the agreement being entered into by signing. While there is no obligation to enter into this agreement with us, it is a condition of our service provision. 

   REVIEW OUR WAIVER OF LIABILITY HERE

 

Booking TErms & Conditions

Before you book your course, please review our Booking Terms & Conditions. We do not accept bookings without your voluntary acceptance of these terms. Please read carefully as these terms outline specific policies and guidance for both our staff and clients with respect to refunds, cancellations, rescheduling etc.

   REVIEW OUR BOOKING TERMS & CONDITIONS HERE

 

Book a free consultation

Book a phone call or video call with either of our Program Managers or with our Director of Operations.

This is an excellent preliminary step towards booking a trip with us. It allows us to better understand your requirements and needs for your desired objective. 

ORTOVOX - Proud Supporting Partner of the Outdoor Rock Climbing Series Courses
Cloud Nine Mountain Guides are Internationally IFMGA Certified
Rock Courses Supported by Black Diamond Equipment