Trip & Conditions Report / Mount Assiniboine, August 10-14


Penny Goddard and I guided father and son dream team Tom and Wilson on a five day Mount Assiniboine trip this week.


We flew into Assiniboine Lodge and approached the hut on August 10th. The Moser Highway (I would call it a Regional Road at best) approach is in good shape, the few remaining snow patches are easily avoided. The night of the tenth we had the hut to ourselves and it rained on and off all night.


It was 3 degrees at 4 am when we headed out the door on August 11th. We climbed the first quarter of the North Ridge of Assiniboine to familiarize the team with the route, but turned around early in the day due to intermittent rain and the promise of a much better forecast the following day.


On August 12th we again headed up the North Ridge, this time we slept through our alarms and left the hut feeling rested at 5am. The route was dry up to the red band. Here we encountered a short section of verglass, the result of a brief shower the previous night. Fortunately this quickly changed to a dusting of snow, which made for insecure footing, but didn`t significantly slow our progress. On the final ridge to the summit some spooky cornices still linger but snow travel could be avoided. Although we carried crampons up the route as our insurance policy, in the end they stayed in the bag as training weight. We reached the summit at noon and enjoyed lunch during a sunny window while taking in the view.


On the descent we were pleasantly surprised to find that the snow and ice had melted and we made quick progress down the mountain. On the evening of August 12th there were ten of us staying at the hut, which made for good company. 


On August 13th, 3 parties reached the summit with excellent weather and dry conditions. We enjoyed sunbathing near the hut and scrambled up Mount Wedgewood in the afternoon to take photos and look for cool rocks.


On August 14 we descended to Assiniboine Lodge. We celebrated with a quick beer before hustling off to catch an early helicopter flight back the cars.


Thanks for a great trip Tom and Wilson, a proud assent of one of the Rockies finest.


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Simon Meis & The C9G's