The Routes! Mount Athabasca

Here's a Collection Of Our Favorite Routes on Mount Athabasca


Our 3 Favorite Routes Up this Classic Peak


The AA Col (Normal Route) - II

The AA Col route is often the best choice for 1st time Alpinists. The route ascends past a small pocket glacier that sits directly in between the peaks of Mount Athabasca & Andromeda. An alpine start sees us weaving through the moraines by headlamp below the Athabasca Buttress, en route to the base off the AA Glacier. Bypassing a short series of rock steps, and with the icefall of the AA Glacier spilling over the ciff beside us, we ascend through more protected terrain to gain the toe of the AA Glacier. Here we begin to ascend the the glacier, ascending near its end up steep slopes to the AA Col. From the AA Col, a short ascent gains the summit of the Silverhorn, and a short time after, the summit of Mount Athabasca. Descent is either via the same route up or given good conditions, the Ramp Route on the North side of the Peak.


The Silverhorn - II

The Silverhorn is a classic ascent up, an iconic Canadian Rockies feature. We ascend through moraines early in the morning to gain the toe of the North Glacier of the peak. From here we climb, weaving in and around crevasses, to a bench below the Silverhorn itself. Depending on the time of year and previous winter's snowfall depths, the ascent up the feature can be either step-kicking in snow or frontpointing up the beautiful, grey alpine ice. From the top of the line, we traverse for a short distance to the true summit of Mount Athabasca itself. Descent is often via the AA Col or the Ramp Route providing we have good snow stability.


The North Face Bypass - III / 5.3

The North Face Bypass is one of the more interesting ways to ascend the mountain. A more varied and interesting ascent than the Regular North Face, this route ascends a combination of the North Face and the North Ridge. One of our favourites, without a doubt! 

We follow the same approach to the Silverhorn described above, then traversing to the far south side of the basin directly below the North Face, we cross the bergschrund and begin the ascending up to 5 pitches of steep snow and ice to the junction with the North Ridge Route. Here we ascend via the remainder of the North Ridge through a series or rock steps and mixed gullies often snow covered or choked with ice to the summit ridge. Traveling the exposed summit ridge, we traverse a bit more than 100m to the Summit of Athabasca. Descent is often via the AA Col or the Ramp Route providing we have good snow stability.